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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.